Lemaire

From Alaïa’s Teckel to Lemaire’s Croissant and Prada’s Buckle bag, signature bag shapes can power growth and crystallise brand identity for luxury houses.

The men’s fashion week that closed in Paris on Sunday served up an array of masculine personas. At times, it worked; at times, it looked like cosplay, reports Angelo Flacavento.

Demand for the Paris label’s androgynous, utilitarian wardrobe has grown ten-fold since 2019 as shoppers turn their back on logo-mania and embrace the brand’s more subtle ethos. ‘Reality isn’t a dirty word,’ says co-creative director Christophe Lemaire.

Rick Owens, Dries Van Noten, Loewe and Lemaire were standouts at a men’s fashion week where the volume was both turned up to ten and kept low, writes Angelo Flaccavento.

The return of empowered femininity is all the rage this season, but designers had their own takes on what this looks like, reports Angelo Flaccavento.

Today at the Paris shows, a lighter touch prevailed at both Rochas and Lemaire.

After a few years of overt decoration, sculpted, monochromatic lines look utterly fresh again. Lemaire, Rochas and Courrèges each proved the point in their own way.

At Lemaire and Rochas, sophistication and elegance made for strong and soulful collections.

Japanese conglomerate Fast Retailing has also extended designer Christophe Lemaire’s contract as artistic director of the Uniqlo Paris R&D Center by another five years.

Fans and retailers alike reckon with the reality of a post-Phoebe Philo Céline, signalling opportunity for brands who could fill the gap.